Visiting the Gede Ruins: a lost Swahili town in the forest

Hidden in the forest a few minutes from Watamu’s beaches, the Gede Ruins are one of the most atmospheric places on the Kenyan coast. Tall trees grow among the coral-stone walls, monkeys run along the ruins, and it is easy to imagine the town as it once was.

A short history

Gede was a Swahili town, part of a chain of trading ports along the East African coast. It grew from around the 12th century and was at its height in the 15th, when its people lived in stone houses with courtyards and traded with merchants from Arabia, Persia, India and China. The town was abandoned in the early 17th century, perhaps because of raids from the north or because its wells ran dry. It was later swallowed by the forest, and excavated in the 20th century.

What to see

• The town walls and gates: an inner and outer wall surrounded the town.
• The Great Mosque: the largest building in the town, with its prayer niche and the bases of its pillars.
• The palace: a large complex of courtyards and rooms behind an arched entrance.
• The houses: named after the finds made in them, such as cowrie shells, scissors and Venetian beads.
• The pillar tombs: tall carved pillars, one of the signatures of Swahili architecture.

Visiting

The site is run by the National Museums of Kenya and is open every day. There is an entrance fee, a small museum and guides at the gate, who bring the town’s story to life. Allow 1½ to 2 hours. See our guide to the Gede Ruins.

Tips

• Come early or late, when it is cooler and the light is softer.
• Wear comfortable shoes and insect repellent.
• Keep food out of sight of the monkeys.
• Combine it with the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest across the road.