Marafa Hell’s Kitchen at sunset: a day trip from Malindi

An hour inland from the beaches of Malindi, the land suddenly drops away into a canyon of red, orange, pink and cream sandstone. Marafa, nicknamed Hell’s Kitchen, is one of the most unexpected sights on the Kenyan coast, and it is at its best as the sun goes down.

Getting there

Marafa is about 30 km north-west of Malindi. The road heads inland past the Sabaki river and through farmland; parts of it are rough. Most people go on a half-day tour or hire a driver from Malindi or Watamu, leaving in the early afternoon.

The walk

The canyon is managed by the local community. After paying the entrance fee at the rim, a guide leads you down into the gorge, along narrow gullies and past towering pinnacles. The walk takes about an hour, on uneven and sometimes steep ground. The guides explain how the rock formed and share the local legends.

The legend

The Giriama name for the place, Nyari, is often translated as “the place broken by itself”. A popular story tells of a wealthy family who angered the gods, and whose land sank into the earth in a single night. The English name, Hell’s Kitchen, comes from the fierce heat that builds up between the walls in the middle of the day.

Sunset

Back on the rim, find a spot to watch the sun set over the canyon, when the colours glow. Simple bars nearby sell cold drinks.

Tips

• Do not go at midday; aim to arrive about two hours before sunset.
• Wear shoes with good grip, and bring water and a hat.
• Carry cash for the entrance fee, drinks and the guide’s tip.
• See our guide to Marafa Hell’s Kitchen and Malindi.